We recommend sketching out your area and taking accurate measurements. Take measurements based on product being 15' or 7 ½' wide and directional. You can also bring your drawing in or email it to us and we can advise the material required to complete the install. Waste factor on most projects is around 10-20%, putting greens around 20-30%.
The project the area needs to be 2-3" below grade, and free of any existing root base. We strongly recommend the removal of at least 2-3" of the existing grass even if it's dead or dormant. A sod cutter usually works best for larger areas can normally be rented from your local hardware or rental equipment store. In addition you can use a vegetation killer if you want more protection, but it is not required.
Spreading aggregate over the installation area is the first step in creating your sub base for synthetic grass. It is recommended the base be at least 2" deep. Use an asphalt or landscape rake to spread aggregate evenly and level your base. Dampen the entire area. Compact the area using a hand tamper or plate compactor. When complete, the sub base should be a hard, smooth surface for the turf to lie over. The sub base gives the turf a solid foundation while providing proper drainage. Common sub base materials are decomposed granite (DG) or class 2 road base, approximately 1 cubic yard per 150 square feet is average. If your area is low more maybe required.
It is recommended to use a commercial grade weed fabric to keep unwanted weeds or grass from growing up into your artificial grass. Roll the weed fabric over your sub base and secured with a few nails to keep the fabric from moving while you are rolling the artificial grass into place over the weed fabric. Overlap the fabric by a couple of inches.
When turf is manufactured, an extra couple of inches of backing material remains along the edge of the turf. This extension runs the length of the turf roll on both sides after the last stitching row of yarn. Before you can seam two pieces of turf together you must remove the extra material. To trim the excess material, flip the turf over and work from the backside. Find the second row of stitching and start cutting between the second and third stitch row with a carpet knife. When your knife becomes dull, replace or rotate the blades to keep your cuts neat. – Do not cut turf from the top as it will sever the grass blades.
After you have measured and marked your sections, roll the turf over the base and cut each section. It is a good idea to leave a little extra length while you position the turf. You will trim off the extra length once you have all the turf in position and are ready to cut the final shape. You will want to make sure that you roll out the turf in the same direction each time, as artificial grass is grain directional.
Start from the center of the rock and make small slits around it. You want to keep the turf right up to the rock edge and get the turf to lay flat on the ground without wrinkles. Make as many small cuts as necessary to achieve this. Remove any excess turf and work with smaller pieces. It is much easier to maneuver without large pieces or turf flapping down hindering your movement.
Use nails to secure the turf edges and around the perimeter of the installation area. It is important to use nails that are 3" - 6" in length to properly secure the grass to your base. We recommend electro galvanized or steal nails, as you want the nails to rust, allowing them to expand and hold the turf more securely into the sub base. Simply tap in nails along the perimeter every 2" - 3". It is also recommended that nails be used about every 2' within the interior area – picture a 2' grid. If your install project will receive very high foot/paw traffic or if you notice the turf feels loose or wrinkles additional nails can be used.
Before cutting the turf to make your seams, always make sure the grain of the fibers are facing the same direction on both sections of turf. Check and double-check the fit of the two sections making sure there is no overlap. Any overlapping of the two pieces will cause a bulge or wrinkle in the seam. Flip over each side of the turf about 10-12 inches to allow for positioning of the seam tape (thin membrane tape such as a flashing tape about 6" wide is recommended). Roll out the seam tape down the entire length of the seam. To keep the tape from moving it can be pinned down with a few nails. Flip one section of the turf onto the seam tape, if any grass fibers become stuck to the seam tape, simply use one of your nails to unstick the fibers. Slowly flip the second piece over and ensure your two sections will come together snugly prior to securing the second section to the seam tape. Once the two pieces have been seamed, alternate nails down the seam in a zigzag formation every 2" to 3" along the entire seam. Broom the fibers up before using the drop spreader to spread the infill.
The drop spreader is used to evenly disperse sand infill into the turf fibers. Approximately 1.5 – 2.0 lbs per square feet of silica sand is recommended for standard installations. Fill your drop spreader with sand and start at one corner of your lawn just like spreading fertilizer on natural grass. Walk behind the spreader at a steady pace dropping a measured amount around the perimeter a couple of times. You can either continue walking in a circle until you reach the middle or start spreading using up and down passes. The key is to spread the sand as evenly as possible. Depending on the turf you purchased a small amount of crumb rubber may be recommended, discuss this with our turf experts.
Brooming can be done with a stiff bristled brush/broom or a power broom. Start from one end making smooth strokes against the grain over the entire area. Look closely at all areas, if necessary add sand with a dropspreader where it is needed and work those areas in with your broom.